What is Mold?
Molds produce tiny spores to reproduce.
Mold spores waft through the indoor and
outdoor air continually. When mold spores
land on a damp spot indoors, they may begin
growing and digesting whatever they are
growing on in order to survive. There are
molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet,
and foods. When excessive moisture or water
accumulates indoors, mold growth will often
occur, particularly if the moisture problem
remains undiscovered or un-addressed. There
is no practical way to eliminate all mold
and mold spores in the indoor environment;
the way to control indoor mold growth is to
control moisture.
Basic Mold Cleanup
The key to mold control is moisture
control. It is important to dry water
damaged areas and items within 24-48 hours
to prevent mold growth. If mold is a problem
in your home, clean up the mold and get rid
of the excess water or moisture. Fix leaky
plumbing or other sources of water. Wash
mold off hard surfaces with detergent and
water, and dry completely. Absorbent
materials (such as ceiling tiles & carpet)
that become moldy may have to be replaced.
Ten Things You Should Know About
Mold
- Potential health effects and
symptoms associated with mold exposures
include allergic reactions, asthma, and
other respiratory complaints.
- There is no practical way to
eliminate all mold and mold spores in
the indoor environment; the way to
control indoor mold growth is to control
moisture.
- If mold is a problem in your home or
school, you must clean up the mold and
eliminate sources of moisture.
- Fix the source of the water problem
or leak to prevent mold growth.
- Reduce indoor humidity (to 30-60% )
to decrease mold growth by: venting
bathrooms, dryers, and other
moisture-generating sources to the
outside; using air conditioners and
de-humidifiers; increasing ventilation;
and using exhaust fans whenever cooking,
dishwashing, and cleaning.
- Clean and dry any damp or wet
building materials and furnishings
within 24-48 hours to prevent mold
growth.
- Clean mold off hard surfaces with
water and detergent, and dry completely.
Absorbent materials such as ceiling
tiles, that are moldy, may need to be
replaced.
- Prevent condensation: Reduce the
potential for condensation on cold
surfaces (i.e., windows, piping,
exterior walls, roof, or floors) by
adding insulation.
- In areas where there is a perpetual
moisture problem, do not install
carpeting (i.e., by drinking fountains,
by classroom sinks, or on concrete
floors with leaks or frequent
condensation).
- Molds can be found almost anywhere;
they can grow on virtually any
substance, providing moisture is
present. There are molds that can grow
on wood, paper, carpet, and foods.
If you have IAQ and mold issues in your
school, you should get a copy of the
IAQ Tools for Schools Kit. Mold is
covered in the IAQ Coordinator's Guide under
Appendix H - Mold and Moisture .
Asthma and Mold
Molds can trigger asthma episodes in
sensitive individuals with asthma. People
with asthma should avoid contact with or
exposure to molds.
EPA's
Asthma web site
EPA's
Asthma Brochure
EPA's
Mold page from Asthma web site
Health and Mold
How do molds affect people?
Some people are sensitive to molds. For
these people, exposure to molds can cause
symptoms such as nasal stuffiness, eye
irritation, wheezing, or skin irritation.
Some people, such as those with serious
allergies to molds, may have more severe
reactions. Severe reactions may occur among
workers exposed to large amounts of molds in
occupational settings, such as farmers
working around moldy hay. Severe reactions
may include fever and shortness of breath.
Some people with chronic lung illnesses,
such as obstructive lung disease, may
develop mold infections in their lungs.
EPA's publication,
Indoor Air Pollution: An Introduction for
Health Professionals , assists
health professionals (especially the primary
care physician) in diagnosis of patient
symptoms that could be related to an indoor
air pollution problem. It addresses the
health problems that may be caused by
contaminants encountered daily in the home
and office. Organized according to pollutant
or pollutant groups such as environmental
tobacco smoke, VOCs, biological pollutants,
and sick building syndrome, this booklet
lists key signs and symptoms from exposure
to these pollutants, provides a diagnostic
checklist and quick reference summary, and
includes suggestions for remedial action.
Also includes references for information
contained in each section. This booklet was
developed by the American Lung Association,
the American Medical Association, the U.S.
Consumer Product Safety Commission, and the
EPA. EPA Document Reference Number
402-R-94-007, 1994.
Allergic Reactions - excerpted from
Indoor Air Pollution: An Introduction for
Health Professionals section on: Animal
Dander, Molds, Dust Mites, Other Biologicals
.
"A major concern associated with exposure
to biological pollutants is allergic
reactions, which range from rhinitis, nasal
congestion, conjunctival inflammation, and
urticaria to asthma. Notable triggers for
these diseases are allergens derived from
house dust mites; other arthropods,
including cockroaches; pets (cats, dogs,
birds, rodents); molds; and
protein-containing furnishings, including
feathers, kapok, etc. In occupational
settings, more unusual allergens (e.g.,
bacterial enzymes, algae) have caused asthma
epidemics. Probably most proteins of
non-human origin can cause asthma in a
subset of any appropriately exposed
population."
Consult the
Centers for Disease Control (CDC) website
Stachybotrys or Stachybotrys atra (chartarum)
and health effects
Homes and Molds
The EPA publication, "A Brief
Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home"
, is available here in
HTML and
PDF formats. This Guide provides
information and guidance for homeowners and
renters on how to clean up residential mold
problems and how to prevent mold growth. A
printed version will be available soon.
Biological Pollutants in Your Home
- This document explains indoor biological
pollution, health effects of biological
pollutants, and how to control their growth
and buildup. One third to one half of all
structures have damp conditions that may
encourage development of pollutants such as
molds and bacteria, which can cause allergic
reactions -- including asthma -- and spread
infectious diseases. Describes corrective
measures for achieving moisture control and
cleanliness. This brochure was prepared by
the American Lung Association and the U.S.
Consumer Product Safety Commission. EPA
Document Reference Number 402-F-90-102,
January 1990.
Moisture control is the key to mold
control, the Moisture Control Section from
Biological Pollutants in Your Home
follows:
Moisture Control
Water in your home can come from many
sources. Water can enter your home by
leaking or by seeping through basement
floors. Showers or even cooking can add
moisture to the air in your home. The amount
of moisture that the air in your home can
hold depends on the temperature of the air.
As the temperature goes down, the air is
able to hold less moisture. This is why, in
cold weather, moisture condenses on cold
surfaces (for example, drops of water form
on the inside of a window). This moisture
can encourage biological pollutants to grow.
There are many ways to control moisture
in your home:
- Fix leaks and seepage. If water is
entering the house from the outside,
your options range from simple
landscaping to extensive excavation and
waterproofing. (The ground should slope
away from the house.) Water in the
basement can result from the lack of
gutters or a water flow toward the
house. Water leaks in pipes or around
tubs and sinks can provide a place for
biological pollutants to grow.
- Put a plastic cover over dirt in
crawlspaces to prevent moisture from
coming in from the ground. Be sure
crawlspaces are well-ventilated.
- Use exhaust fans in bathrooms and
kitchens to remove moisture to the
outside (not into the attic). Vent your
clothes dryer to the outside.
- Turn off certain appliances (such as
humidifiers or kerosene heaters) if you
notice moisture on windows and other
surfaces.
- Use dehumidifiers and air
conditioners, especially in hot, humid
climates, to reduce moisture in the air,
but be sure that the appliances
themselves don't become sources of
biological pollutants.
- Raise the temperature of cold
surfaces where moisture condenses. Use
insulation or storm windows. (A storm
window installed on the inside works
better than one installed on the
outside.) Open doors between rooms
(especially doors to closets which may
be colder than the rooms) to increase
circulation. Circulation carries heat to
the cold surfaces. Increase air
circulation by using fans and by moving
furniture from wall corners to promote
air and heat circulation. Be sure that
your house has a source of fresh air and
can expel excessive moisture from the
home.
- Pay special attention to carpet on
concrete floors. Carpet can absorb
moisture and serve as a place for
biological pollutants to grow. Use area
rugs which can be taken up and washed
often. In certain climates, if carpet is
to be installed over a concrete floor,
it may be necessary to use a vapor
barrier (plastic sheeting) over the
concrete and cover that with
sub-flooring (insulation covered with
plywood) to prevent a moisture problem.
- Moisture problems and their
solutions differ from one climate to
another. The Northeast is cold and wet;
the Southwest is hot and dry; the South
is hot and wet; and the Western Mountain
states are cold and dry. All of these
regions can have moisture problems. For
example, evaporative coolers used in the
Southwest can encourage the growth of
biological pollutants. In other hot
regions, the use of air conditioners
which cool the air too quickly may
prevent the air conditioners from
running long enough to remove excess
moisture from the air. The types of
construction and weatherization for the
different climates can lead to different
problems and solutions.
Moisture On Windows
Your humidistat is set too high if
excessive moisture collects on windows and
other cold surfaces. Excess humidity for a
prolonged time can damage walls especially
when outdoor air temperatures are very low.
Excess moisture condenses on window glass
because the glass is cold. Other sources of
excess moisture besides overuse of a
humidifier may be long showers, running
water for other uses, boiling or steaming in
cooking, plants, and drying clothes indoors.
A tight, energy efficient house holds more
moisture inside; you may need to run a
kitchen or bath ventilating fan sometimes,
or open a window briefly. Storm windows and
caulking around windows keep the interior
glass warmer and reduce condensation of
moisture there.
Humidifiers are not recommended for use
in buildings without proper vapor barriers
because of potential damage from moisture
buildup. Consult a building contractor to
determine the adequacy of the vapor barrier
in your house. Use a humidity indicator to
measure the relative humidity in your house.
The American Society of Heating and Air
Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) recommends
these maximum indoor humidity levels.
Outdoor Recommended Indoor Temperature
Relative Humidity
+20 F. 35%
+10 F. 30%
0 F. 25%
-10 F. 20%
-20 F. 15%
Anne Field, Extension Specialist,
Emeritus, with reference from the
Association for Home Appliance Manufacturers
(
www.aham.org ).
Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home
Cleaned? - excerpt on duct
cleaning and mold follows, please review the
entire document for additional information
on duct cleaning and mold.
You should consider having the air ducts
in your home cleaned if:
There is substantial visible mold growth
inside hard surface (e.g., sheet metal)
ducts or on other components of your heating
and cooling system. There are several
important points to understand concerning
mold detection in heating and cooling
systems:
- Many sections of your heating and
cooling system may not be accessible for
a visible inspection, so ask the service
provider to show you any mold they say
exists.
- You should be aware that although a
substance may look like mold, a positive
determination of whether it is mold or
not can be made only by an expert and
may require laboratory analysis for
final confirmation. For about $50, some
microbiology laboratories can tell you
whether a sample sent to them on a clear
strip of sticky household tape is mold
or simply a substance that resembles it.
- If you have insulated air ducts and
the insulation gets wet or moldy it
cannot be effectively cleaned and should
be removed and replaced.
- If the conditions causing the mold
growth in the first place are not
corrected, mold growth will recur.
What is Radon?
Radon is a carcinogenic gas that is
hazardous to inhale. Build-up of radon in
homes is a health concern and many lung
cancer cases are attributed to radon
exposure each year. About 12% of lung
cancers and more than 20,000 Americans die
of radon-related lung cancer each year. The
Surgeon General of the United States has
issued a Health Advisory warning Americans
about the health risk from exposure to radon
in indoor air. Dr. Carmona, the
Nation's Chief Physician urged Americans to
test their homes to find out how
much radon they might be breathing. He also
stressed the need to remedy the problem as
soon as possible.
You cannot see, smell, or taste radon. But
it still may be a problem in your home.
When you breathe air containing radon, you
increase your risk of getting lung cancer.
In fact, the Surgeon General of the United
States has warned that radon is the second
leading cause of lung cancer in the United
States today. If you smoke and your
home has high radon levels, your risk of
lung cancer is especially high.
Testing is the only way to find
out your home's radon levels.
EPA and the Surgeon General recommend
testing all homes below the third floor for
radon. If you find that you have high radon
levels, there are ways to fix a radon
problem. Even very high levels can be
reduced to acceptable levels. Radon has been
found in homes all over the United States.
It comes from the natural breakdown of
uranium in soil, rock and water and gets
into the air you breathe. Radon typically
moves up through the ground to the air above
and into your home through cracks and other
holes in the foundation. Radon can also
enter your home through well water. Your
home can trap radon inside.
Any home can have a radon problem. This
means new and old homes, well-sealed and
drafty homes, and homes with or without
basements. In fact, you and your family are
most likely to get your greatest radiation
exposure at home. That is where you spend
most of your time. Nearly 1 out of every 15
homes in the United States is estimated to
have an elevated radon level. Elevated
levels of radon gas have been found in homes
in your state.
EPA's Radon Testing Check List:
-
Notify the occupants of the importance
of proper testing conditions. Give the
occupants written instructions or a copy
of this Guide and explain the directions
carefully.
-
Conduct the radon test for a minimum of
48 hours; some test devices have a
minimum exposure time greater than 48
hours.
-
When doing a short-term test ranging
from 2-4 days, it is important to
maintain closed-house conditions for at
least 12 hours before the beginning of
the test and during the entire test
period.
-
When doing a short-term test ranging
from 4-7 days, EPA recommends that
closed-house conditions be maintained.
-
If you hire someone to do the test,
hire only a qualified individual.
Some states issue photo identification
(ID) cards; ask to see it. The tester's
ID number, if available, should be
included or noted in the test report.
-
The test should include method(s) to
prevent or detect interference with
testing conditions or with the testing
device itself.
-
If the house has an active
radon-reduction system, make sure the
vent fan is operating properly. If the
fan is not operating properly, have it
(or ask to have it) repaired and then
test.
If your home has not yet been tested for
Radon have a test taken as soon as possible.
If you can, test your home before putting it
on the market. You should test in the
lowest level of the home which is suitable
for occupancy. This means testing in the
lowest level that you currently live in or a
lower level not currently used, but which a
buyer could use for living space without
renovations.
The radon test result is important
information about your home's radon level.
Some states require radon measurement
testers to follow a specific testing
protocol. If you do the test yourself, you
should carefully follow the testing protocol
for your area or EPA's Radon Testing
Checklist. If you hire a contractor to test
your residence, protect yourself by hiring a
qualified
individual or company.
Many states require radon professionals to
be licensed, certified, or registered. Most
states can provide you with a list of
knowledgeable radon service providers doing
business in the state. In states that don't
regulate radon services, ask the
contractor if they hold a professional
proficiency or certification credential.
Such programs usually provide
members with a photo-ID card, which
indicates their qualification(s) and its
expiration date. If in doubt, you should
check with their credentialing
organization. Alternatively, ask
the contractor if they've successfully
completed formal training
appropriate for testing or mitigation, e.g.,
a course in radon measurement or radon
mitigation.
If you are thinking of selling your home and
you have already tested your home for
radon, review the Radon Testing
Checklist to make sure that the test
was done correctly. If so, provide your
test results to the buyer.
No matter what kind of test you took, a
potential buyer may ask for a new test
especially if:
-
The Radon Testing Checklist items were
not met;
-
The last test is not recent, e.g.,
within two years;
-
You have renovated or altered your home
since you tested; or
-
The buyer plans to live in a lower level
of the house than was tested, such as a
basement suitable for occupancy but not
currently lived in.
A buyer may also ask for a new test if your
state or local government requires
disclosure of radon information to buyers.
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MYTH: Scientists are not sure that
radon really is a problem.
FACT:
Although some scientists dispute the
precise number of deaths due to
radon, all the major health
organizations (like the Centers for
Disease Control and Prevention, the
American Lung Association and the
American Medical Association) agree
with estimates that radon causes
thousands of preventable lung cancer
deaths every year. This is
especially true among smokers, since
the risk to smokers is much greater
than to non-smokers.
MYTH: Radon testing is difficult,
time-consuming and expensive.
FACT:
Radon testing is easy and
inexpensive.
MYTH: Radon testing devices are not
reliable and are difficult to find.
FACT:
Reliable testing devices are
available from qualified radon
testers and companies.
MYTH: Homes with radon problems
can't be fixed.
FACT:
There are simple solutions to radon
problems in homes. Hundreds of
thousands of homeowners have already
fixed radon problems in their homes.
Radon levels can be readily lowered
for $800 to $2,500 (with an average
cost of $1,200)..
MYTH: Radon affects only certain
kinds of homes.
FACT:
House construction can affect radon
levels. However, radon can be a
problem in homes of all types: old
homes, new homes, drafty homes,
insulated homes, homes with
basements, and homes without
basements. Local geology,
construction materials, and how the
home was built are among the factors
that can affect radon levels in
homes.
MYTH: Radon is only a problem in
certain parts of the country.
FACT:
High radon levels have been found in
every state. Radon problems do vary
from area to area, but the only way
to know your radon level is to test.
MYTH: A neighbor's test result is a
good indication of whether your home
has a problem.
FACT:
It's not. Radon levels can vary
greatly from home to home. The only
way to know if your home has a radon
problem is to test it.
MYTH: It's difficult to sell homes
where radon problems have been
discovered.
FACT:
Where radon problems have been
fixed, home sales have not been
blocked or frustrated. The added
protection is some times a good
selling point.
MYTH: I've lived in my home for so
long, it doesn't make sense to take
action now.
FACT:
You will reduce your risk of lung
cancer when you reduce radon levels,
even if you've lived with a radon
problem for a long time.
MYTH: Short-term tests can't be used
for making a decision about whether
to fix your home.
FACT:
A short-term test, followed by a
second short-term test* can be used
to decide whether to fix your home.
However, the closer the average of
your two short-term tests is to 4
pCi/L, the less certain you can be
about whether your year-round
average is above or below that
level. Keep in mind that radon
levels below 4 pCi/L still pose some
risk. Radon levels can be reduced
in most homes to 2 pCi/L or below.
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